This is a subject that returns over
and over on the tea forums I frequent. As with everything
else tea-related, I am not an expert on teawares, but I have
played a little with several different kinds of vessels for
brewing tea, and in my hands, some work better than others for
different kinds of teas or different occasions.
When picking a teapot, gaiwan, or other brewing vessel, you want
to keep several things in mind: brewing style, the teas to
be brewed, and whether this will be one vessel to brew all teas
or one dedicated to just a particular type of tea. Brewing
vessels come in different materials--some slick and
nonabsorbent, or rough and porous; in different sizes--large for
serving several people, small for personal brewing of a
multiply-infused tea; and with different styles of filter or
strainer--built in, added on, quick flowing or slow, and more or
less easily clogged. Your preferences in brewing may
require a fairly specialized pot or you can find one thing that
does almost anything.
Styles of brewing (&
relationship to teapot size):
'
Western'
brewing means making a single infusion from the tea leaves,
e.g., putting a small amount of leaf in a pot, letting it steep
in hot water for several minutes, pouring it out into a cup, and
throwing out the wet leaves after that one batch is drunk.
If you brew like this, a pot of 8 to 20 ounces or 250 to 500 mL
is probably just right for 1-3 cups of tea per pot.
'
Gongfu'
brewing (aka 'gongfu cha') means taking a larger amount of leaf
for the same size pot, pouring water over it, waiting a shorter
time, pouring out and drinking that tea, and then adding more
water to the same leaves, and making another infusion.
This can go on, depending on your preferences and the type of
tea, for four to twenty infusions, or even more for a few really
exceptional teas. Brewing a little at a time lets you sip
it while freshly brewed, and you can enjoy the evolution of
flavor that often occurs with a really nice tea, where some
flavors diffuse out into the liquid quicker than others.
Depending on the type of tea, you may want a small or very small
teapot: I like my tea a little more dilute than most, and
often get more steeps than other folks here because of that. I
usually anticipate 3-4 steeps for white teas, 4-6 for green
teas, 6-10 for oolongs, 10-20 for really fine Dan Cong oolongs,
1-3 for yunnan black teas, and 10-30 for puerhs.
Since I like to prepare a pint to a quart of tea per session for
one person, I generally use a 4-6 ounce vessel for white or
green teas, a 2-4 ounce vessel for oolongs or puerhs, and
occasionally a 1 to 1 1/2 ounce vessel for Dan Cong oolongs or
expensive aged sheng puerhs.
'Grandpa'
style brewing is the simplest of all: putting the
leaves directly in the cup you'll be drinking from, adding hot
water, and sipping the tea from it, and is most often used for
teas with particularly attractive leaves, like Tai Ping Hou Kui
and Long Jing (Dragonwell).
I mostly do gongfu brewing, as many teas don't taste as good
when they sit for a while before drinking--especially delicate
whites and greens, but also Dan Congs and many sheng
puerhs. So
Materials
Glass &
glazed ceramic
Glass doesn't absorb the flavors of tea, so if well rinsed out
after use, it won't carry over flavors from one tea to
another. As glazed pottery is essentially clay coated with
colorful glass, the same thing holds if a ceramic pot has a
glazed interior. This makes these a good choice for a wide
variety of teas, especially if you're only going to have one
teapot for all teas. Since most glass teapots are fairly
thin walled, they may not hold the heat as well as a thicker
ceramic vessel, an important consideration if you're brewing
long infusions with hot-brewed teas (oolongs, puerhs), where a
thin glass or porcelain might cool off too much before the end
of the infusion. It doesn't mute any flavors, which can be
an advantage if you're brewing a tea with very special aromas.
Unglazed
ceramic
A vessel that is unglazed on the inside can absorb and mute some
flavors in a tea, which can be good (in some young sheng puerhs,
it can mute the bitterness that obscures sweeter, earthier
flavors). But a tea with delicate aroma can lose something
in an unglazed pot, so it's not usually the best choice for a
first or only teapot. Wall thickness helps determine if a
pot is going to be especially good for a delicate green
(thinner) or hearty puerh (thicker).
Some ceramics (e.g., yixing or zisha clays, and many others)
have the reputation for changing the flavor of the water held in
them, and for absorbing and then releasing the flavor teas in a
way that enriches the flavor of teas brewed in it later.
This is supposed to be related to things like the size of the
pores in the pot and the chemical makeup of the clay. The
patina of long use is particularly prized in some pots, and you
can find many 'recipes' for seasoning a teapot to best effect
for a particular tea. You can pay a lot of money for pots
made from special clays by master artisans, and the 'best' are
often counterfeited. Watch out when the claims about the
pots and the prices are both very high.
Plastic
I have several Kamjove 'gongfu art' brewing devices, that hold
tea and water in a top chamber to steep together, and then a
turn of the lid or a push of a button releases the brewed tea
through a strainer into a bottom pitcher from which you can pour
the tea. They don't add any 'plastic' scent or flavor to
the tea, and work well enough for teas I brew to fill my thermos
for long meetings or drives. I consider these and similar
devices made to sit directly on top of a mug to be quite useful,
but they do not add the extra pleasure of handling nicely made
glass or ceramic vessel during a tea session.
Types of vessels
The simplest brewing vessel is a glass or mug with some tea
dropped into it. This works if: you're brewing a
forgiving tea and you can sip the tea fast enough to avoid it
getting bitter. One step more complicated is to brew
the tea in a glass pitcher, such as a pint measuring cup, with
the tea loose in it, then pour the tea through a strainer into
another cup to drink. The main disadvantage to brewing
this way is that it's awkward to get all the leaves back out of
the strainer into the pitcher if you're going to brew more than
one infusion; and again, you need to pour off all the tea when
it's ready if it's a tea that would otherwise get bitter.
Gaiwans
The simplest brewing vessel after a single mug or pitcher is a
gaiwan. This is a lidded cup, usually with a separate
base, that works for just about any kind of tea.
Most often they're porcelain, but you can find unglazed clay or
glass too if you prefer.
You add tea and hot water, let steep,
and then tilt the lid slightly as you pour out the tea to use
the gap between lid and the rim of the gaiwan to trap the tea
leaves in the cup and let only the liquor out.
I like to hold the base of my small gaiwans along with the lid,
but I think the lid plus the of the bowl like this below is the
more common grip.
It takes a little practice to handle one smoothly and avoid
scorched fingers: it's a good idea to watch one being
demonstrated (in person or there are plenty of videos on
youtube), and to practice at least once with cool water, before
trying to brew a tea with water at the boil.
Most of my gaiwans were quite cheap--$2.99-$3.99 at my local tea
shop--cheap enough that I keep a group around for comparative
tastings, so I can compare several teas brewed under essentially
identical conditions.
One caution with a gaiwan: the lid should fit quite
closely but not perfectly in the cup, because you want it to
easily slip and tilt with just slight pressure of your
fingers. One of the first ones I bought turned out to be
almost unusable, because there was a slight ridge inside the rim
of the glass bowl, and the lid was perfectly round and fit very
snuggly against this ridge--making the needed tilt/opening quite
tricky. It was sent off to goodwill soon after.
Teapots
Spout/strainer designs
A '
single hole' teapot
has an interior hole continuous with the spout--the only thing
that keeps the leaves in is careful pouring or the size of the
leaf. A wire coil strainer can be fitted to the spout of a
pot like this if desired. (I don't have any examples of
this kind of pot in my collection, so no photo.)
Flat multi-hole
strainers are just a few holes punched through the body of the
pot at the spout. They work fine with most teas, but not
always so well with very fine broken leaf teas, like senchas or
CTC black teas. These are common in smaller ceramic pots,
and I have several glass teapots with a variation on this
design.
Ball-type strainers
are rounded half-spheres that have more holes than a flat 5 or 7
hole strainer, and depending on the size of the sphere and the
holes, may be more efficient than the flat hole strainers, or
not. I've only seen these on ceramic pots.
Sasame strainers are a
fancier variation on the same theme--a larger, many-holed filter
piece fitted into the pot, and especially good for senchas.
Another filter type that I don't have in my collection is often
seen in japanese pots with glazed interiors--a stainless wire
mesh that wraps around the interior. These are very
popular with people who drink a lot of tea with finely broken
leaves--e.g., deep-steamed or fukamushi sencha--because they
reportedly permit quick pours and rarely clog with the fine wet
leaf bits.
Glass
teapots
I have several that have a little strainer 'built in' to the
spout. These are not quite fine enough to be practical
with sencha teas--they let a lot of the little leaf through--but
they work well enough for most other teas.
I don't use the glass pots quite as often as gaiwans because
mine are larger than most of my gaiwans, and because I can pour
the tea out faster from a gaiwan. So they're fine for teas
where I'm brewing a few large infusions and where a few extra
seconds to pour is not a problem--most white teas, lots of
greens, and most oolongs--but not so good for really fast flash
rinses of Dan Cong oolongs and puerhs. There are many
quite similar pots that use a metal wire coil that fits the
spout as a strainer, and while I've never owned one, they look
equally practical, and I wouldn't hesitate to get one as a
'first and only' teapot.
This is a rather large glass teapot, with a metal infuser.
It works very well for making large quantities of tea at once,
but can't be used efficiently for small quantities, because the
strainer holds the tea above the bottom of the pot, and a low
water level confines the tea too much.
But I keep it for occasional brewing of larger batches of tea
'western style'--to fill my thermos, or for herbal teas
(chamomile, hibiscus, mint, gamro, ginger) that really don't
improve with a second brewing. The large basket gives the
tea plenty of room to expand if I fill the pot, and the mesh
strainer lets the water inside mix freely with the water outside
it
I bought these infuser mugs because they looked cool--crystal
clear, to let the tea really shine through--but soon came to
hate their infuser design.
The slits cut into the glass are neither large enough to let the
liquid move in and out of the infuser cup freely, nor small
enough to keep from clogging with fragments of leaf. It's
not fun to hold one up while it drains s l o w l y out, trying
to avoid scorching your fingers, and trying to clean out the
bits of leaf from the slits afterwards. I mostly use the
mugs as mugs, with the infusers and lids staying on the shelf,
or for occasional mugs of cold-brewed tea for hot weather.
Fully glazed ceramic teapots
These work pretty much the same as glass teapots
if fully glazed inside,
but they come in a wider variety of thicknesses, and of course
can be exceptionally beautiful when made by teaware
artisans. They vary in size, wall thickness, clay type,
and in the spout design--but even if there's only one large
spout hole, you can probably get a wire coil filter to fit into
it. Many japanese-made pots with glazed interiors
have wire-mesh filters that circle the entire interior of the
pot, including the spout.
Ceramic teapots with UNGLAZED interiors
These come in many varieties, including plain cheap little pots
like those in this collection (none cost more than $16.99 at my
local chinatown tea shop)
Or artisan-made pots like this porcelain beauty from Korean
potter Seong-il
which is unglazed inside
And this kyusu from Petr Novak
is also unglazed inside.
The kyusu is a type of teapot with a side-fitted handle that can
be especially convenient to use for japanese green teas with
their finely broken leaves (watch out if you're left handed--it
may not work as well for you).
But unless you want to get into the subtleties of different
clays and their effects on water and teas (a subject for endless
discussion among many tea connoissueurs), what matters in the
beginning is simply the unglazed interior, which may hold over
nuances of flavor from one tea brewed in it to the next.
Shiboridashi,
houhin, and more....
There are many
tea-brewing vessels that are something like a cross between a
gaiwan and a conventional teapot. I really love my
shiboridashi by Petr Novak,
which uses the fit of the lid over the notched spout as a
strainer
In addition to paying attention to the size and
material--especially whether the interior is glazed or not--the
temperature at which you're going to use them is particularly
important. They don't put as much distance between your
fingers and the hot tea, so may work fine with cool-brewed white
or green teas, but not as well with oolongs, puerhs, or black
teas. I finally gave away this lovely little korean
'travel set'
because it scorched my fingers so much when I used it to brew
puerhs, which are the principal teas I brew in very small
volumes (because I brew many infusions from the same
leaves). The shiboridashi pictured just above this set
actually has some thick bits of glaze right where I like to put
my fingers, so I can infuse teas with boiling water and still
not burn them.
Putting it all together
"I want just one pot for all of teas":
if you drink a variety of teas, you need a non-porous
interior--glazed ceramic or glass are good choices. A
gaiwan can be used for any tea, and so can a basic glass teapot,
glazed ceramic teapot or kyusu. If you don't brew teas in
very hot water (or have insensitive fingers), you might find a
shiboridashi or korean tea set is very nice too.
If you brew western style, a nice 8-16 ounce european-style
teapot may be just fine. If you brew gongfu, the size
depends a lot on how many infusions you like to brew at one
time. A 4-6 ounce pot will do almost everything you might
want, if you don't mind occasionally combining infusions when
you need a larger volume of teas. A gaiwan or shiboridashi
of this size is straightforward to use; but larger gaiwans of
200 mL plus may be awkward to handle, depending on their design.
If you need really simple for use at work or on-the-go, there
are a variety of plastic mug-top filters, infusers like the
kamjove pictured at the top of this page, and even insulated
travel cups with filter/strainers built in--but before you buy
one of these 'travel' infusers, be sure that the teas you'll be
brewing in it won't develop bitter or foul tastes if they sit in
the water for up to several hours.
"I want a pot for green
teas":
if you won't be brewing flavored or strongly scented teas, to
the above options, you can also add unglazed ceramic pots,
kyusu, gaiwans, or shiboridashi. You may want a larger pot
if you're going to brew western style (>8 ounces or 250 mL),
but note that green tea (as well as white and sheng puerh)
rarely holds that fresh-brewed flavor more than a few minutes
after steeping, as the tea liquor will darken and the some
bitter elements can develop or be revealed in the cooling cup.
If you brew senchas or gyokuro, you want to pay special
attention to the filter, because these fine leaves will quickly
clog a flat hole filter or smaller ball filter.
"I want to start gongfu brewing
for oolong or puerh
teas": a 100 mL porcelain gaiwan will brew
anything once you get the hang of using it, and can be very
inexpensive (like the $3.99 specials at my local shop).
It's a great way to get started while you learn about teas, and
from there you can decide if you need (or want) more specialized
teapots.
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