Five by Five Chocolate Cookies
I wanted to feature the dried
cacao fruit I discovered recently at Whole Foods, little thin
squares that seem like fruit leather, from 'Blue Stripes Urban
Cacao', in 4 oz packages (the recipe uses one whole
package). I've been curious about cacao pulp since as soon
as I realized that the pulp was the original attraction of cacao
for the indigenous people who discovered it, but since the pulp
is key to traditional fermentation of the beans, I figured I'd
have to go to a cacao farm to actually taste it.
I built these comparing several different recipes, including
Chewy Chocolate Cookies from the Fannie Farmer Baking Book and
some of my own previous versions trying to create a fudgy
brownie-like cookie without making something too close to a
flourless chocolate cake or even truffle. I also
made them without gluten so I can share them with a colleague
who is gluten-sensitive, and because teff is so very good in
chocolates. The chia is to help them hold together with
the gluten-free flours, and can be omitted if using a wheat
flour with gluten.
Mincing the cacao fruit is difficult because it is so sticky, so
I use my favorite technique of letting the food processor do the
work by adding the dried fruit with a portion of the flour, so
the fruit bits get immediately flour coated as they are chopped,
and you can get it quite fine that way.
(revised for 100% teff and with correction in calculating the
substitute flour quantities)
Lightly greased or lined baking sheets
Oven 350°F / 175° C
Baking time 12 minutes
3/4 cup / 170 grams unsalted
butter
(if what you have is salted, see adjustment
below)
3/4 cup / 150 grams sugar
3 1/2 ounces / 100 grams unsweetened chocolate
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons / 45 grams water
OR 1/4 cup buttermilk OR 1/4 cup water
[1 teaspoon vanilla if not using vanilla bean]
Milled together
225 grams teff
2 inches vanilla bean
[OR use 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, added with the eggs and
buttermilk or water]
Alternatives for the flour
1 1/2 cups / 225 grams teff flour
[OR
1 1/2 cup / 225 grams whole wheat pastry flour
OR soft wheat flour OR unbleached all purpose flour]
2 tablespoons / 12 grams buttermilk powder [omit if using
buttermilk]
1/2 cup / 75 grams cocoa
10 grams ground chia seeds [omit if using wheat flour]
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt [omit if using salted butter]
4 ounces / 113 grams dried cacao fruit, minced
1/2 cup / 2 ounces or 60 grams cacao nibs
2 ounces / 56 grams finely chopped bittersweet chocolate (I love
70% Sambirano from Dick Taylor, or Scharffenberger 70%)
Melt the butter and unsweetened chocolate together (I do it in the
microwave on lower power to avoid scorching the chocolate, stirring
often). Transfer to mixer bowl, and beat together with the
sugar.
Beat in the eggs, water or buttermilk and vanilla if you are using
that.
Take half of the flour and whirl in food processor with the dried
cacao fruit until the fruit is very finely minced. This stuff
is STICKY and the food processor struggles a bit to manage it; I
have to stop and pick the gummy coating off the blade a few times to
get it done. You can also chop it with a knife but it is hard
work and the knife will need a lot of clearing too.
Sift or whisk the flours, chia [if using gluten-free flours], salt,
baking powder, buttermilk powder [if using] together, and add to the
mixing bowl together with the the flour/cacao fruit, cacao nibs, and
chopped chocolate. Stir together until well mixed.
Icebox/Refrigerator cookies version: work
less, eat later
This is how I made them the second time, and I think it worked
better: let sit for several hours at room temperature or in
the refrigerator, to hydrate the flour and let the dough firm up
enough to be shaped into rolls. Take about 1/3 of the dough
and form into a roll, about 2 inches in diameter, and wrap in waxed
paper or parchment or plastic wrap, and chill until quite firm for
neat slicing (about 2 hours in freezer, overnight in refrigerator).
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 325°F / 163° C.
Slice the rolls 1/4 inch thick and place on prepared baking sheets
(lightly greased, or lined with parchment or silpat). Bake
325°F for about 12 minutes, until they are a little dry and firm on
the outside, should still be a little soft but not gooey inside.
Hand-rolled balls version: work harder, eat sooner
This is how I originally made them: let sit for several
hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator, to hydrate the
flours.
Preheat the oven to 325°F / 163° C.
Roll teaspoonsful of dough into small balls, flatten them a little,
place them fairly close together on lightly greased or parchment or
silpat lined baking sheets (they won't spread much).
Bake 325°F for about 12 minutes, until they are a little dry and
firm on the outside, should still be a little soft but not gooey
inside.
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