I am not a tea master, barely a tea
apprentice. But I do have a friend who is trying to figure out
why the tea I brew is better than when he brews the same stuff. I
tend to brew with a lower leaf-to-water ratio and cooler water than
many people because of my bitter-phobic taste buds. I am
gradually learning to tolerate hotter-brewed teas, especially if I keep
infusions shorter, however, so everything here is subject to change!
Nevertheless, here are som general guidelines about how I do it,
together with
some links for other opinions.
I bought a
quick-read
digital
themometer and a
small
digital
scale and
measured my teapots to about 10mL of accuracy to get a better
handle on what I was doing. The thermometer is more important
than the scale, because brewing temps critically affect bitterness of
the resulting brew. That bitterness was a huge stumbling block
for me in learning to enjoy green teas, and I hated them until I got a
thermometer and started using it. I've since invested in some
Pino digital kettles,
which bring the tea to the temperature I set, and love them.
I don't use a scale every time I brew a pot of tea, but do use one
every time I prepare a tasting note on a new tea, or start out with a
tea I haven't tried before. Teaspoon measurements just aren't
very helpful when the
density of teas varies so much: each of these little
piles of leaves are 1 gram. Starting out with the right quantity
of leaf just makes the learning curve a lot easier with a new tea.
The
size of the pot you use matters less than the proportion of tea leaves
to water, but even if you get it 'wrong'--the tea is too strong for
your tastes--don't despair. You can improve many an infusion that
is too strong (too mcuh leaf or too long an infusion) by diluting it
with more hot water, or a thin first infusion may be improved by
combining it with a second longer/hotter infusion. You can imp
At home, I'm generally infusing and drinking the tea right away, but at
work I brew to fill a quart thermos that I take with me to clinic and
meetings, to drink and to share, and for that I scale up to the
'bulk' brewing with a larger teapot, fewer longer infusions, until I
get a quart of tea. Bulk brewing notes are appended down
here.
Sencha--japanese green tea--for
this one, I still get out the scale, as I'm not very accurate at
eyeballing the quantities with my tea scoop--the weight scoop to scoop
is quite variable even for a single batch of the same tea.
I haven't tried to
scale this one up for 'bulk' brewing because the
qualities that make it delicious--the fresh green vegetable flavors and
the sweetness--go off when the tea is held for more than a few minutes
before drinking.
I prefer
about 1 gram per 2 oz/60mL
160°F/70°C water 30";
then same temp, 0-10" second infusion; then back to 30" and same temp
or little hotter (up to 10°F/5°C hotter per additional infusion
especially for 3rd and later infusions)
3-4 infusions from one batch of leaves
I brewed
Gyokuro the
same way, but wouldn't try to get more than 2 infusions from the
leaves.
Dragonwell, Bi Lo Chun, Jasmine pearls--chinese
green
teas--
Huang Ya, chinese yellow
tea--and
Silver Needle,
chinese white tea--I get out the thermometer pretty much every time but
less often use the scale.
I
sometimes
'bulk' brew
the Jasmine pearls but like the japanese greens, the best qualities of
the dragon well doesn't translate to bulk tea held before drinking.
I like these with
1-2 grams per 2 oz/60mL
160°F/77°C water
30 seconds per infusion, except 2nd
infusion is usually quite short
2-8 infusions from one batch of
leaves (sometimes going hotter with later infusions, like with Sencha
Yunnan Mao Feng green tea--a
more
forgiving
chinese green
tea--this one is more forgiving with both temperature and leaf
quantities. It also holds pretty well in the thermos for a few
hours. I like this with similar proportions to the other greens,
but get more
infusions out of it
about 1-2 grams per 2 oz/60mL
160°F/77°C-180°F/82°C
water
30 seconds to 2 minutes per infusion
4-8 infusions from one batch of leaves
Pouchong and other lightly
oxidized greener oolongs (Alishan,
Tie
Guan Yin or Ti Kuan Yin)--flexible
and gorgeous teas, ok with variable leaf-to-water ratios, a variety of
temperatures, and though they do lose some sweetness, the warm floral
qualities hold up well when brewed in bulk and held in the thermos.
Some can get richer and sweeter with hotter temps, especially the
later infusions, but some are touchy and do get bitter, so your oolong
may vary:
1-2 grams per 2 oz/60mL
180°F/82°C-205°F/96°F
water
30 seconds for first infusion,
increasing a little with each additional infusion, over six infusions I
might go from 30", 30", 60", 60", 90", 90"
6-12 or more infusions from one batch
of leaves (keep going until the flavor is gone)
Wuyi and other more oxidized
brown oolongs--darker,
toastier teas tolerate higher temperatures, but otherwise I use about
the same brewing conditions as the lighter oolongs. Some of these
do
wonderfully well in 'bulk' and when held in the thermos; their
sweeter/fruitier qualities seem to come out more when they sit longer
before drinking, although the spicier notes do get muted.
1-2 grams per 2 oz/60mL
180°F/82°C-195°F/90°F
water
10 second rinse first (discard); 30
seconds for first infusion, increasing a little with each additional
infusion, over six infusions I might go from 30", 30", 60", 60", 90",
90"
6-10 or more infusions from one batch
of leaves (keep going until the flavor is gone)
Pheonix Mountain/Dan Cong
Oolongs--some
stronger and less refined flavors in these can make brewing trickier,
but they have amazing flavors to give. They're quite expensive,
but give so many infusions for a given quantity of leaf that you're
still not paying much per quantity of finished tea. Their amazing
(and expensive) flavors are lost
in the thermos when bulk brewed, so I gave up after just one or two
experiments.
1-2 grams per 1 1/2 oz/50mL
180°F/82°C-205°F/96°F
water
10 second rinse first (discard); 30
seconds for first infusion, increasing a little with each additional
infusion
15-20 infusions or more; more infusions from the higher leaf-to-water
ratio (can even let the leaves sit overnight in the pot and wake them
up with a quick hot rinse in the morning, then keep brewing)
Puerhs--these teas
tolerate higher temperatures, mostly, but they're really quite variable
and some need very particular attention to bring out their best
qualities, particularly the young sheng (raw) pus. Most of these
do
wonderfully well in 'bulk' and held in the thermos.
1-2 grams per 2 oz/60mL
195°F/90°C-205°F/96°F
water
10-20 second rinse first (discard);
10-15
seconds for first infusion, increasing a little with each additional
infusion, over six infusions I might go from 10", 10", 20", 20", 30",
30", and by the time I'm up to 12 infusions, 60-90 seconds per, or more
12-20 or more infusions from one
batch of leaves (keep going until the flavor is gone)
Bulk brewing
for a thermos, for tea to be
held for several hours before drinking:
the key for me is to use about the same amount of leaf as I
would use to get that total quantity of tea if I were brewing it
in the usual way. For example, for my favorite yunnan gold black
tea, I might use 5 grams of leaf for two infusions in my 6 oz pot to
fill a 12 oz mug. To fill my 1 quart (32 oz) thermos, I might use
the same quantity of loose puerh leaves that I would use in my 2.5 oz
gaiwans, where I'd reinfuse the same leaves a dozen or more times.
I have enjoyed lovely sessions with white, green, oolong, black, and
puerh teas in the thermos, but avoid white and green teas when they
will be held for a long time (e.g., when brewing early AM for tea that
might not be finished until 5 or 6 pm, in that office where no one
shares my tea).
I do not use my fancy Dan Congs from Tea Habitat or the best Wuyi teas
(the variety of spicy flavors demonstrated in gongfu brewing seem to be
dulled and merged into blandness), and the high notes of fancy Anji
white teas and the best silver needle are also compromised; but almost
anything else is fair game. The stunning sweetness of the first
infusions of really fine green oolongs also fade rather quickly, but
they still are delicious and I do use them often despite it.
Many good but not absolutely top-tier teas will do just fine and you
won't notice the difference in this application: the SeaDyke brand Ti
Kuan Yin, a medium grade Da Hong Pao, or a basic Phoenix oolong from
Wing Hop Fung are tasty from the first to the last of the thermos.
Favorites? Most shu puerhs and black teas hold excellently; many sheng
puerhs do remarkably well. I've had a number of excellent
sessions with the Yunnan Mao Feng green tea from Norbu; all of the
green oolongs I've tried have been good, and most have been very good.
Houjicha is wonderful, but I haven't tried any other japanese teas;
sencha seems to diminish if it just sits in the cup more than 5 minutes
before I drink it, so it seemed a waste to try this for the thermos.
Other sites with brewing
instructions:
For Japanese green teas, check out the excellent and detailed general
brewing
instructions
from Denstea.com
Norbutea.com
suggestions for chinese teas, covering greens, whites, oolongs and
puerhs
Tea
Habitat
instructions for Phoenix Dan Cong teas
And I learned a lot from these books:
The
Story
of Tea by Heiss & Heiss and
The
Harney
& Sons Guide to Tea
Return
to
Diane's Tea Page
Return
to Diane's Food Page
Return to Diane's Home Page