The Ratatouille
Principle
This is more a principle than a
recipe because it’s so variable and versatile, and my use of
peppers and corn is not traditional ratatouille. When
tomatoes are scarce or the quality doesn’t look as good as you
expect at the end of the sauteeing, you can always consider
adding a bit of tomato paste or some canned tomatoes. When
summer green beans or sugar snap peas look great, toss some
in. Prefer other herbs to basil? Go ahead.
Whatever you like. It should still be pretty good, and has
a good chance of being GREAT.
Corn makes the dish for me; the classic doesn’t include it but
it is ripe with the tomatoes and can bring a crispness and rich
sweet base to counterbalance the tart sweet depth of the
tomatoes and it’s brilliant.
If you are making this for a large group dinner and it will be
consumed all at once, you can cook some of the vegetables
separately in a saute pan and put the cooked vegetables together
in a larger pot as they are finished, keeping them just gently
warmed for the flavors to meld; this gives you a better chance
of optimizing the textures of each vegetable. I usually am
making this for me to freeze ahead & eat later, so I'm less
concerned about perfect texture that will be a little degraded
by the freeze/thaw anyway.
Per 1 onion, multiply up as you please
Several cloves of garlic (to your taste)
Olive oil
(butter)
Onions, sliced to your preference (fine dice/thick rings,
you pick)
1-3 Fresh tomatoes, really really ripe, fresh, probably
you can do it with canned added at a later point in the cooking,
but I save this for summer & fall when the fresh are
brilliant; cut into quarters or slice or however you like
1 small eggplant (optional), sliced or diced as you
like
Mix of sweet and hot peppers, your choice but I like 2-3
sweet (ripe bells, anaheims, sweet italian chilis) and 1-3 hot
(ripe red jalapenos or fresno or other per your
choice),depending on how hot per onion's worth, stemmed, seeded,
sliced & diced to your preference
2-4 summer squash, ideally not giant baseball-bat style
zukes, sliced or diced
(vegetable stock)
1 ear of corn, sliced off the stalk, cob scraped with the
back of the knife to get all the corny goodness (germ, liquid)
into the pot
1 handful or small bunch of greens (optional)
Half pint to a pint of rich vegetable stock (optional)
or quick stock made with trimmings and the corn cobs and cooked
under pressure 10 minutes while the rest is simmering
Herbs
Pine nuts (optional)
I put the garlic first by itself because I like
to "tame" it. I separate a head of garlic into cloves but
don't bother peeling them. I place them in the microwave,
scattered on the rotating plate, and zap them full power until
they start 'popping' (in mine, it's 20-40 seconds until this
happens), wait a few more seconds (only a few), and pull them
out. The skins will be loose and opened, and you can pop
them off easily. Then I put them through the garlic press,
and the result is richly nutty garlicky but not bitter or
biting; it's as tamed as if it was roasted in the oven without
heating up the whole oven. You can also peel them raw and
slice and dice if you prefer knife work & sharp, biting
garlic to lazy zap & pressed mellow garlic.
Then start with olive oil (and a little butter too if you like)
and saute the onions....depending on my mood sometimes heat them
gently until they're just barely getting translucent and soft
but still pale; sometimes I do it over higher heat to brown
their edges; sometimes I go for carmelized. Remember
they're going to be cooked more with everything else. Add
the garlic along with the tomatoes in the next step.
Then add the tomatoes, stir until they’re softening and
releasing a lot of liquid. Add the squash, eggplant if
using, and peppers, and stir more until they get a touch browned
for more flavor in the final dish.
Add the corn and stock or a bit of water to cover the
vegetables, simmer a few minutes, stir in the herbs, pine nuts
if using; correct seasonings, salt, pepper, and enjoy.
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